When the Stanhope Beach Resort was founded, you might have heard a phrase such as: "O, here I lay, weary of rest, and wake the morning, when sun ariseth in his majesty." In other words, it dates back a very long time.
The property began as an oceanside log cabin, settled in 1789 by Cornelius and Isabelle Higgins and their brood of seven. In 1855, Angus MacMillan took over the land lease and built his farm, which he called Pleasant View. By 1860, he had changed the name to Pleasant Point Hotel, and by 1871 was charging the exorbitant rate of $1.50 a day. Decades then passed, as did the 1940s heyday of the hotel, when it was known as a first-class tourist destination with a dancehall, dining room -- and running water. From there, a sad, slow decline began.
But now, PEI's oldest hotel has a new lease on life. In 2005, it was purchased by Great George Properties, headed up by islander Mike Murphy, who says he found the place in such a state of disarray that "if something hadn't happened shortly, it would have been too far gone."
This month, Stanhope Beach Resort launched as the East Coast's latest heritage hideaway -- and a place where the Great Gatsby himself would be comfortable bedding down.
Location
Tucked into Covehead Bay, on a peninsula just 20 minutes from Charlottetown, the resort also sits at the gates of PEI National Park. There are stunning vistas of sand dunes, lighthouses, farmland and 270-degree water views of the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In addition, there are kilometres of white sand beaches to explore, along with nearby Cavendish and the Stanhope Golf & Country Club, which is a two-minute golf cart ride away. Biking, kayaking, horseback riding and deep-sea fishing excursions are steps from the front porch.
Ambience
When I was at Stanhope, the rush was on to complete construction before opening weekend on Mother's Day, so the mood was more backhoes and pea gravel than iced tea and Adirondack chairs.
Still, guests could see what the place was about to become. The exterior of the main lodge features a patio that runs the periphery of the building, harking back to days of yore. The grand lobby is furnished with antiques and wingback chairs in earthy hues and deep reds. And oil paintings, a reading room, a parlour and a custom walnut fireplace (sparked every evening) warms the interior. As for the creaky, sloped stairs and hallway floors -- they look something like The Shining meets The Road to Wellville. But I mean that in the nicest way.
Outside, proprietor and landscape architect Paul Smith is designing gardens and courtyards featuring native shrubberies, grasses and seaside perennials. The summertime pursuits of tennis, badminton, croquet and lawn bowling are all part of this genteel picture: "I'll know we're there when I see a gentleman walking across the grounds with a silver tray of mojitos," Mike Murphy offers.
Clientele
Locals have been circling the property-in-progress since the first hammer hit the first nail in January of this year. They'll be stopping in, at the very least for dinner, as will the many New Yorkers who vacation on the island. Upper Canadians, too, are likely to frequent the historic resort for summer getaways.
Rooms
The 29 newly renovated suites are heritage-hued, large and sunny. All have hardwood floors, antiques and wingbacks -- and some have unique architectural features such as an original log-cabin wall encased under glass. Rooms are also dotted with historic black-and-white photos of PEI, mostly beach-related images such as women in hats and bathing costumes, children playing in dunes, oyster-fishing boats and lighthouses. Modern bathrooms are done up in marble and chrome, with Aveda bath products.
Food and drink
Although the dining room doesn't officially open until June, the restaurant at Stanhope is sure to be an island draw, as the owners also own a nearby 150-acre organic farm, where they raise beef, chickens and vegetables, much of which will be used in the kitchen.
Stanhope starters run from $5 to $10 and include bruschetta topped with herb garlic gouda "made right here on PEI" and homegrown pork stuffed into spring rolls with house-made ginger-plum sauce. The lobster in the ravioli is right off the boat. Mains, such as island-raised beef tenderloin marinated in local Gahan House lager, or North Shore halibut with orange saffron glaze on a bed of beet risotto, are $20 to $35.
In addition, the hotel will offer a complimentary deluxe continental breakfast each morning.
Service
On my visit, it was too soon to judge, but all indications point toward five-star service with a touch of "aw-shucks" island charm. Other pluses: a 24-hour concierge, a business centre with Internet access, laundry and dry cleaning, bilingual staff and babysitting by prior arrangement.
Bottom line
Thank goodness for entrepreneurs like the Murphy clan, who, rather than watching a dilapidated building fall to its knees, chose to bring it back to life with its historical integrity intact. Now, future generations of islanders can enjoy the Stanhope for years to come -- just like the people in all of those black-and-white photos.
Hotel vitals
STANHOPE BEACH RESORT
Essentials: Stanhope, PEI; 1-866-672-2701; http://www.stanhopebeachresort.com.
Rates and rooms: The resort's main farmhouse is now open with 29 suites, including six rooms on separate cliff-side buildings. Traditional rooms start at $149 a night. Hideaway guest rooms at $299, and Cliff Suites (the crème de la crème) at $389.
Top draw: Where better to stay during PEI's lobster season? Especially when management here are old-school elegant and cool under pressure
Needs work: Looking out on Motel 6-style room blocks -- though they'll probably come down as part of Phase II renovations next year.