Born in 1865, The Langham, in London was Europe's first 'Grand Hotel'.
The Langham, London
1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London; 44-20-7636-1000; london.langhamhotels.co.uk; 380 rooms and suites from $299 (£183).
There are hotels that appeal directly to different senses - the sight of a grand foyer, the feel of plush bedding, the taste of a perfectly stirred martini - but rare is the lodging that makes its case to nearly all the senses at once, and almost immediately so. The 145-year-old Langham ranks among this exclusive cadre.
While the approach from Oxford Circus along Regent Street gives little indication of the splendors that await, once you set foot inside the marble-clad entry, you know that you truly have arrived. Smooth, immaculately polished stone greets every footfall, while understated elegance comes into view at each angle and the only sounds, seemingly impossible in a sprawling and busy hotel, are the muted tones of hushed efficiency. And that smell, is it lavender?
Taste will come later, along with other delights and surprises from this Victorian classic, recently refurbished to the tune of £80-million ($131-million). For the time being, however, the arriving guest is content to simply drink it all in.
Design
The renovation has put a lot of new flesh on these old bones, and with considerable style and grace. Ubiquitous pink accents are the one concession to modern-day quirkiness; the rest is modern classicism at its finest, from the sleek, bright lobby with its high ceiling, dominant pillars and fireplace to the winding staircase and understated hallways.
The Amenities
As a "grande dame" hotel of the highest order, the Langham boasts pretty much every amenity you could imagine or desire, although some come at a not inconsiderable cost. Use of a fine 24-hour fitness facility and nearby pool - both temporary measures in place while the larger, more extensive in-house fitness centre, pool and spa are under renovation - is at least free, as is the exemplary turn-down service and overnight shoeshine. But expect to pay a premium for use of the business centre, which includes a reception area for business clients, and a price tag of up to £20 ($32) for in-room Internet access. (And why is it, anyway, that it is so often the case that the more you pay to stay in a hotel, the more apt they are to charge you for Wi-Fi?)
The Rooms
The 380 rooms at the Langham come in renovated and original versions, with the latter being the less costly. Even without having had millions of pounds poured into them, though, the "classic" rooms hardly demand any sacrifice of comfort, offering as they do all the perks - luxurious beds, plush linens, solid wood furniture - one would expect of a destination hotel, albeit in a somewhat "grandmotherly" style.
Still, the main draw here are the renovated rooms, which combine the taste and sophistication of hotel's original style with modern conveniences and luxury. Rather than the English country inn feel of the classic rooms, the "grand" rooms and suites are dressed in solid colours with modern embellishments, much as one might expect in a high-end boutique hotel. Fixtures are sleek and metallic, some bathrooms feature both soaking tubs and spacious shower stalls, and snake-necked beside lamps allow one person to read without disturbing the other's sleep.
Comfortable work desks, large flat-screen televisions with satellite and cable programming, more than ample drawer and closet space and high quality tea - along with the instant coffee omnipresent in all classes of British hotel rooms - complete the indulgent picture.
Service
In a word, faultless. Without exception, every staff member we encountered was courteous, attentive and seemed genuinely concerned that our every need was met. Even the most extraordinary request, such as that of the man we saw at the front desk asking that the Wi-Fi be turned off in his room because he was sensitive to its waves, was treated with the utmost diligence and respect.
Food and Drink
Gone are the days past when English cuisine was derided as some sort of bad joke, and The Langham seeks to make the most of its revival. The experience begins in Palm Court, where three meals a day, plus afternoon tea and a "champagne hour," are all served in a setting that successfully, if improbably, combines Victorian aesthetics with art deco design. Slightly down the hall, the Artesian serves both creative and classic cocktails from 4 p.m. daily and from noon on weekends, with particular attention paid to the bar's assortment of rums.
The hotel's culinary pride and joy, however, is The Landau, a modestly sized, circular restaurant where the now almost clichéd doctrine of local and fresh is put exquisitely into practice. The chef makes full use of Britain's bounty, from Cornish lamb to Orkney scallops and Dover sole, accenting dishes with simple but expertly presented sides such as braised red cabbage and black fig or caramelized chicory. A generous selection of wines is available by the glass, or guests can choose from a bottle list that emphasizes biodynamic producers.
The Verdict
While it is by no means an inexpensive place to enjoy - a late-night snack and cocktails for two at Artesian, the hotel's cocktail bar, cost us more than £70 ($114) - The Langham plainly numbers among the finest hotels in Britain, if not all of Europe.
Special to The Globe and Mail