When I am entertaining at home, I don’t arrange specific wines to go with what’s on the menu. I’m typically more interested in pairing wines with the people around the table: the niece who enjoys dry rosé with her turkey dinner, my riesling-loving family members who won’t appreciate chardonnay no matter how grand, or in-laws whose tastes lean toward richly concentrated pinot noirs and malbecs. As a result, there is often a selection of different colours and styles of wine available.
If I don’t know about specific taste preferences of guests, I stock up on wines that I believe to be good all-rounders. It’s a category I often call bistro-style wines. It’s a catch-all that covers red wines you could enjoy with pizza, pasta or burgers, or equally versatile styles of white wine, such as Chablis, chenin blanc from South Africa or white blends from France. Often, these aren’t the usual suspects. Sauvignon blanc can be too aggressive for some, but pinot grigio is too neutral. Cabernet sauvignons might be too heavy, while Chianti Classico risks being too acidic. This is a job for the Goldilocks wines that are gentle, plush and approachable.
This week’s recommendations focus on nine red wines that are just right for holiday entertaining or solo sipping. There is a mix of prices and styles gathered here, including a mature Bordeaux that’s ready to drink now and a French red with a quirky label that might not suit your festive decor. In such instances, I would say Le Fat Bastard Shiraz would benefit from being served out of a decanter. The bottle doesn’t need to leave the kitchen.
Château Coufran 2010 (France), $43.95
Here’s a ripe and mature Bordeaux that’s ready to drink. Château Coufran produces wine from a single 76-hectare block located near Saint-Estèphe. The traditional blend is mostly merlot with 15 per cent cabernet sauvignon, which is certainly age-worthy based on the complex and developing style of the 2010 vintage. The flavours suggest a mix of dark fruit with cedar, earthy and savoury notes that linger. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $36 in Quebec.
Decoy Zinfandel 2021 (United States), $37.95
The Decoy portfolio was created by Napa winemakers Dan and Margaret Duckhorn. This rewarding zinfandel is a multiregional blend of vineyards spread across California, including Amador County, Sonoma and Mendocino. The blend includes 10 per cent of petite sirah which contributes to a concentrated and complex red wine, with layers of ripe berry and peppery flavours that are well balanced by polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $36.95 in Quebec.
Evel Tinto 2019 (Portugal), $15.95
Evel is a dry red wine marketed by Real Companhia Velha, Portugal’s oldest wine company, since 1913. This 2019 vintage shows attractive Douro character, with its fragrant and fruity mix of dark fruit and stony and herbal notes. This is soft and juicy on the palate, with a firm finish that adds to the enjoyment. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Greystone Pinot Noir 2019 (New Zealand), $43.95
Produced in Waipara Valley North Canterbury, this is a complex pinot noir with a core of vibrant red fruit complemented by some savoury and spicy notes. The style sits nicely between the juicy fruit of Marlborough and the power of Central Otago pinots. Medium-bodied and elegant, this has appealing texture and persistence. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $27.97 in British Columbia (2018 vintage).
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2022 (South Africa), $68.95
One of the pioneering estate wineries in South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Hamilton Russell has a knack for producing nicely structured and refreshing pinot noirs with appealing ripe fruit flavours. Look for ripe cherry and berry notes with cedar and spice notes. The fresh, intense and complex style is ready to enjoy now or hold. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $68.09 in Manitoba, $60.75 in Quebec (2021 vintage).
Le Fat Bastard Shiraz 2022 (France), $14.95
Created by French winemaker Thierry Boudinaud and British wine importer Guy Anderson in 1998, it’s somewhat surprising to see this provocative wine brand still being a going concern in 2023. Its continuing success speaks to the enjoyable quality of the wine behind the gimmicky label that features an illustration of a hippopotamus and the promise of a “Fabulously Full Bodied” wine. This syrah, labelled as a shiraz by the marketing team, is produced with grapes from around the Minervois region in the south of France that show the generously fruity character of the grape. There’s lots of juicy berry fruit with a hint of spice, vanilla and floral notes that add complexity. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $16.49 in British Columbia, $16.99 in Saskatchewan, $14.80 in Quebec, $18.99 in Prince Edward Island, $19.06 in Newfoundland.
Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2021 (Argentina), $17.95
This is a simple and pleasant malbec with creamy texture and balancing acidity. The flavours suggest blueberries and plums with some chocolate notes as part of wine made for mass appeal. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, $19.99 in British Columbia ($16.99 until Dec. 30), various prices in Alberta, $21.96 in Newfoundland ($19.96 until Dec. 31).
Sistina Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2020 (Italy), $16.90
This rich and ripe red wine is made with the montepulciano grape from Citra’s extensive vineyards in Abruzzo. The style is easy to appreciate thanks to intense, almost liqueur-like dark berry flavours. The nicely concentrated and supple texture makes this stand out. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Trapiche Reserve Malbec 2021 (Argentina), $17.95
An enjoyable style of malbec, this presents sweet ripe fruit with some floral, licorice and chocolate notes. There’s structure to balance the mix of plum, cherry and berry flavours, which makes this a cut above most similarly priced reds from Argentina and elsewhere. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, $15.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $14.05 in Quebec, $18.49 in New Brunswick, $18.29 in Nova Scotia, $18.99 in Prince Edward Island, $17.93 in Newfoundland.
Christopher Waters